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Saturday, June 4, 2011
Backstage at YSL: No Lip, Please
Backstage at YSL: No Lip, Please
Rigidness has no place backstage at a fashion show. Why? Because nothing ever goes as planned there, and the universal rule is that the closer it is to showtime, the more radical the shift in direction will be. Take, for example, this week’s Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011 show in Paris, where models were all set to walk the runway with deep, velvety purple lips, when it was suddenly decided to wipe off the dark hue and replace it with a sheer peachy-pink gloss. Why the sudden change? Turns out once they saw how the shade looked under the runway lights during rehearsal, it came across as too intense on some models. So poof went the violet lip, and with it the dramatic, vampy mood. In its place: the quiet beauty of a refined ingénue. Oh what a difference one lipstick can make.

Once the deep lips vanished, the focus shifted to beautiful skin and strong brows, using all YSL products. Teint Radiance foundation and Natural Radiant Loose Powder created porcelain-like skin, while Touche Éclat was dabbed on the inner corners of the eyes, cheekbones, and brow bones for highlight. Eyes were softly defined with brown shadow (Eyeshadow Duo in No. 1 Heavenly Beige-Astral Brown) and brown mascara (Volume Effets Faux Cils in No. 2 Rich Brown), then brows were pumped up and slightly darkened with pencil and powder. And it took a mix of three lip colors—Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in No. 10 Beige Tribute, Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in No. 36 Coral Legend (out this fall), and Golden Gloss in No. 11 Golden Whisper—to create the fleshy pink lips.

To complete the polished look, hairstylist extraordinaire and Redken creative consultant Guido slicked the hair back into a low bun using Velvet Gelatine 07 gel, then gave it a masculine spin by adding a deep side part and large, sideburn-like wisps by the ears. “The look is inspired by a French Twiggy,” said Guido. “It’s slightly tomboyish and very cool.” And a fascinating evolution from where it all began.

Once the deep lips vanished, the focus shifted to beautiful skin and strong brows, using all YSL products. Teint Radiance foundation and Natural Radiant Loose Powder created porcelain-like skin, while Touche Éclat was dabbed on the inner corners of the eyes, cheekbones, and brow bones for highlight. Eyes were softly defined with brown shadow (Eyeshadow Duo in No. 1 Heavenly Beige-Astral Brown) and brown mascara (Volume Effets Faux Cils in No. 2 Rich Brown), then brows were pumped up and slightly darkened with pencil and powder. And it took a mix of three lip colors—Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in No. 10 Beige Tribute, Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in No. 36 Coral Legend (out this fall), and Golden Gloss in No. 11 Golden Whisper—to create the fleshy pink lips.

To complete the polished look, hairstylist extraordinaire and Redken creative consultant Guido slicked the hair back into a low bun using Velvet Gelatine 07 gel, then gave it a masculine spin by adding a deep side part and large, sideburn-like wisps by the ears. “The look is inspired by a French Twiggy,” said Guido. “It’s slightly tomboyish and very cool.” And a fascinating evolution from where it all began.
التسميات:
Makeup
How to Apply Eye Makeup in 8 Steps
How to Apply Eye Makeup in 8 Steps

1.Prep your eyes with concealer Concealer can be used to cover up under-eye circles or just the bluish discoloration just under your inner eye. To cover dark undereye circles, apply three dots of concealer under each eye. Start at the inner corner where skin tends to be darkest, then under the pupil and the third on the outer edge. Pat, never rub with your ring finger (this finger tends to have the softest pad) until it disappears.
2.Apply eye base to your lid Eye base is the secret to keeping your shadow in place for hours. Without properly priming your lid first, your eyeshadow will likely end up a greasy line in your crease.
3. Follow with eyeliner Dark eyeshadows work great as eyeliners. Wet a slanted brush, then dip in a dark eyeshadow. Line eyes as close to the upper lashes as possible from the inner corner to the outer corner. Follow with liner on bottom eyes, but only line from the middle of the eye out. Smudge the bottom line with a Q-tip or your finger. You don't want a prominent line. For a smokey eye, use a brush to pat in a dark eyeshadow along the upper lid and below the lid. You don't want a stark line, instead you want to blend it so it's "smudge-y."
4. Apply eyeshadow. It's great to use a three-toned shadow and build from lids to brow (see How to apply eyeshadow). Allowing them to blend into each other like a rainbow is gorgeous, according to celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal. Start with a light color that almost matches your lid. Sweep the color across the lid and up to your browbone. Follow with a medium color across your lid only. Build on this with a darker color in the crease. Blend the colors well.
5. Brighten your eyes with a highlighter This step involves only the inside part of the eye. Putting a bit of your lightest eyeshadow in the inner corner of your eye will brighten it significantly (this is the makeup artist's secret and I use this trick all the time). I usually dab a finger into my lightest eyeshadow and then I press it into the inner corner of my eye where the upper lid meets the bottom lid. This totally makes eyes "pop."
6. Highlight your brow Take the same light eyeshadow and dab it on your browbone, concentrating on your mid-brow outward. Blend with your finger. I like to use Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Eclat just below my brow and just above it, but a super light shadow will do you.
7. Curl lashes An eyelash curler will make even long lashes look more gorgeous. For added effect, you can heat the curler under a blowdryer for a couple seconds. Test curler before applying to lashes because you could burn yourself.
8. Apply mascara Place the wand of your mascara brush at the bottom of lashes and wiggle back and forth. Follow with another few sweeps of the wand. Apply to bottom lashes as well. See How to apply mascara for step-by-step instruction and extra tips.
التسميات:
Makeup
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